WOTM – Wine of the Month [12/04] – Château Pichon Longueville Comtessse de Lalande Pauillac 1985

This month’s WOTM is a very special wine pulled from Bad Man’s (that’s me) cellar on a very special occasion – an art installation at the Bad Man abode.  It is the 1985 Château Pichon Longueville Comtessse de Lalande Pauillac, 12.5% abv, $175.

I’ve had this in my cellar for a few years, and thought what better time than the present!  And oh what a present this time is – having just finished a new art installation in my living room, consisting of a 19th marble statue weighing in at, oh, maybe 300 pounds.  Could be 400, or 800 for that matter.  Takes two huge lads to hoist it onto the dolly, where the invention of the wheel makes navigating it from shipping van to viewing gallery a mere trifle.  Still, beauty, though weightless to the soul, is fastened most surely to the earth.

Some of you are saying, “Enough about the bloody statue already, this is supposed to be about the wine!”  All in due time, my dear chaps, all in due time.

Accessible right from the gate, heady aromas of mulch and millyard – there’s definitely some oak involved with this old girl.  Right from the onset the finish was remarkable, silky cherry and red fruit juiciness lasting a good 30 seconds after the draw.  But I’m getting ahead of myself.  First there’s colour.  It’s a tawny sunset blend from edge to inner core of dark brick.  The fill was solid above the shoulder, but the cork was saturated all the way to the end.  It was firmly set, so no harm there, but probably wouldn’t make it to much farther.  On the nose, in addition to oak, there’s pomegranate, bayleaf, mineral, camphor, crushed rocks, mint, pine needle.  Not my favourite nose, but quite giving and complex, with definite elements of Bordeaux.  In the mouth it is viscous and assertive, some tannins looming under the tongue and on the sides, with reasonable acidity.  The fruit flavour profile consists mainly of red fruits.  Surprisingly mouth-filling; not tight or austere.  As the night wore on this wine proved her essence – in a word, remarkable.

In conclusion, not my cup of tea due to the herbal attenuation on the nose and the red fruit, but an amazing excursion into relatively old Bordeaux (a 27 year old) which I enjoy and heartily recommend.  There’s something satisfying about the elegance of the experience that crystallizes the dichotomy between Old and New World wines.  I’m not saying one is better than the other, as for me it’s mood based, but if you like red wine and you drink a well-stored example of this old girl you won’t regret the price of admission.

For those interested in the art installation: the The Royals are having a shindig soon and pictures will most assuredly, and luridly, be posted.

BM: 89

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WOTM – Wine of the Month [12/03] – Christopher Creek Estate bottled Russian River Valley Reserve Petite Sirah 2005

This month’s WOTM is no surprise: the Christopher Creek Estate bottled Russian River Valley Reserve Petite Sirah 2005, 14.4% abv, $35.

I’ve been a huge fan of this winery since the early 90’s, visiting a few times a year and watching them go through several wine makers and changes of ownership.  What’s always surprising, in a good way, is the amazing consistency of their Petite Sirah.  These grapes, similar to the late 70’s Zinfandel grapes over in Dry Creek famously crafted by Paul Draper, just make the wine themselves.  No offense to the winemakers of course, but it is uncanny to have this consistency in New World vineyards.

Dark berry, cool mint and woodblock on the nose.  Balanced, plush and solid in the mouthfeel.  Elegant dark fruit and what developed into a beautiful nose over the evening stands to show how great this wine is.

And you want to know what’s really interesting?  This was chosen #1 by all Royal members in attendance at a 4 bottle Petite Sirah blind tasting.  The other contenders you ask?  Here they are:
Turley Napa Valley Hayne 2002
Robert Foley Nape Valley 2007
Switchback Ridge Napa Valley 2008

Could you assemble a more kick-ass PS line up?  I think not.

Tasting blind, as always.  Christopher Creeks rocks!

BM: 94

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Our favourite value in Bordeaux – Château d’Aiguilhe

From our friends at K & L Wines:

This is a long-time favourite here at The Royals. The following is an excerpt from a K&L email I received yesterday. Just sharing the wealth of the kingdom; but don’t go out and buy it all!

2005 d’Aiguilhe, Côtes de Castillon ($35.99)

92 points Robert Parker: “This huge, historic property, owned by Stephan von Neipperg, appears to have produced their finest wine to date. The dense purple-tinged 2005 offers up notes of creme de cassis, charcoal, camphor, and espresso roast. A sleeper of the vintage, it is a full-bodied, layered, super-concentrated, smooth as silk blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. Enjoy this superb bargain-priced claret over the next 8-10 years.” (08/08) 92 points Wine Spectator: “Displays gorgeous aromas of vanilla bean, mineral, raspberry and blackberry. Full-bodied, with very round, soft tannins and a long, rich, fruity finish. Beautiful. Best after 2016.” (03/08) K&L’s barrel tasting notes – 80% merlot and 20% cabernet franc. Bright and effusive wine with a lovely palate entry. Blackberry juice flavors. Plenty of structure.*+ (Clyde Beffa, K&L Bordeaux buyer) 91 points Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, May/Jun 08: “Bright ruby-red. Almost candied sweetness to the aromas and flavors of pungent black fruits and minerals. Then wonderfully ripe, full and sweet in the mouth, with captivating freshness. The tannins arrive very late, allowing the fruit to expand and linger. “We need great ripeness on this chalky site or else we get bad tannins,” noted von Neipperg. One of the great values of the vintage: this opened at 13 euros.”

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WOTM – Wine of the Month [12/02] – Sullivan Vineyards Rutherford Estate Merlot 2008

This month’s WOTM hails from one of my favourite wineries over the last 20 years – Sullivan VineyardsSullivan Vineyards Rutherford Estate Merlot 2008, 13.9% abv, $50.

Smelling of oak, forest floor, and funk.  A little reserved in the palette, with big tannins and great length as the bottle developed over the evening.  Eventually turning rich with red fruit and chalky tannins, still leaving the mid-palette a tad light.

These grapes were harvested on October 6th and 15th, 2008.

Sullivan’s wines are always a rare treat right in the middle of the California’s foremost Cab/Merlot epicentre, Rutherford.

BM: 89

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WOTM – Wine of the Month [12/01] – Domaine du Viking Cuvée Aurélie Vouvray 1995

The month’s Wine of the Month is a white for the cold month of January.  It is the Domaine du Viking Cuvée Aurélie Vouvray 1995, 12.5% abv, $55.

This is a great Chenin Blanc, my favourite white wine varietal, and it’s drinking perfectly.  I had it paired against the ‘96 and a recent vintage by du Viking; the ‘95 was excellent!

(misplaced my notes) =(

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WOTM – Wine of the Month [11/12] – Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Petite Sirah 2009

This month’s WOTM is our old favourite Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirah 2009, 15.2% abv, $30.

100% Petite Sirah.  Crushed blackberry.  That’s all I got, but I liked it.  Try some and post your review below!

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WOTM – Wine of the Month [11/11] – Niebaum-Coppola Rubicon Estate Inglenook Captain’s Reserve Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

This month’s Wine of the Month is the Niebaum-Coppola Rubicon Estate Inglenook Captain’s Reserve Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006, 13.9% abv, $50.

I always enjoy myself a trip a few times a year up to the San Francisco Bay Area wine country, and hitting Coppola’s is a must.  They always pour some darn good Cab/Merlot you can’t buy elsewhere.

Vintages vary, but the ‘06 is comprised thus: 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 4% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot.  19 months French oak.  It boasts grippy tannins in the mouthfeel, dark fruit, and that wonderful Rutherford quality that makes it my favourite appellation in California.  Oakville and Dry Creek round out my top 3, for those keeping score at home.

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WOTM – Wine of the Month [11/10] – Château L’Eglise-Clinet Pomerol 2002

This month’s WOTM is Château L’Eglise-Clinet Pomerol 2002, 13.5% abv, $100.

Coffee, molasses, tar and anise.  Tight acid, integrated tannins, complex mouthfeel, balanced, juicy, burnt finish but not cloying or overripe.  Surprisingly juicy.

Now, go read the reviews on CellarTracker.  Pretty hard to believe we’re tasting the same wine, eh?  Part of the reason I picked this this month is just that – as an exercise to see how different people react, and of course there’s always bottle variation.

I found this quite enjoyable!

BM: 91

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What’s your favourite Merlot?

I’m looking for a new Merlot. I’ve been disappointed of late and want to find a great one, at each price point. Let’s do a $30, $50, and $90.

The d’Aiguilhe Côtes de Castillon (mostly Merlot) isn’t a great wine by any means, just a solid affordable consistent Bordeaux. The Luna ($30/Napa) is good, as is the Swanson ($30/Napa), but not what I would consider killer, and the Shafer is great but now we’re up to $45 so that’s the next price point. The Leonetti Cellars is world-class, but that’s $90, so that would be in the most expensive tier as I can’t afford the likes of Heidi Barrett’s Amuse Bouche. That Pahlmeyer 2004 was a great world-class Merlot ($80), but every vintage after that has missed the mark. Lastly the Lewis was disappointing that last few times, but they are usually great.

Given all that, what are your favorite Merlots?

I’m putting together a tasting for December and would like to hear from everyone!

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WOTM – Wine of the Month [11/09] – Château Angelus Grand Cru Classé Saint-Émilion 2004

The winner of this month’s WOTM accolade is Château Angelus Premier Grand Cru Classé Saint-Émilion 2004, 14% abv, $120.

Inky black in the glass, this wine is still tight yet rewarding even now.  Rotting mulch on the nose with black sugared crème de menthe.  High acid, integrated tannins, very present on the front palette.  Long slightly overripe finish.  Dark fruit on the mouthfeel; needs at least 2-3 years to resolve.  Plush mouthfeel, softening as the night wore on.  Definitely showing its pedigree, this is a great and complete wine.

BM: 89

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